The safest way to clean sterling silver is to wash it with warm water and mild dish soap, dry it right away with a soft cloth, and use a silver polishing cloth or a non-abrasive paste for tarnish. Harsher methods exist, but they can strip the soft glow that older pieces develop, so start gently and escalate only when you need to.
Tarnish is not dirt. It is a thin layer of silver sulfide that forms when silver reacts with sulfur compounds in the air, which is why a drawer of unused flatware can darken even though nobody touched it.
Washing removes food residue and oils, so polish does not just smear them around. Use warm, not hot, water and a drop of soap, and wipe each piece with a soft cloth. Rinse and dry at once, because water spots can leave marks.
Mistake to avoid: leaving silver to soak for hours. Prolonged contact with water, especially with food residue, can pit the surface.
Polishing cloths are impregnated with a mild abrasive and anti-tarnish agent. Rub in straight lines along the length of the piece, not in circles, which can leave swirl marks. Use a clean part of the cloth as it blackens.
This is the least invasive way to refresh pieces that are only slightly dull.
For deeper tarnish, apply a small amount of silver polish with a damp sponge or cloth, work it over the surface, then rinse thoroughly and dry. A soft toothbrush helps with patterned areas, but be gentle.
Follow the instructions on the product. Do not use polish on items with delicate decoration, certain stones or an intended dark finish without checking that it is suitable.
This approach relies on a chemical reaction rather than rubbing:
In the hot baking soda solution, the aluminum helps convert the silver sulfide back into metallic silver, so the tarnish lifts without rubbing. It works quickly on plain, heavily tarnished pieces.
It also removes the dark shading in engraved or patterned areas that gives older silver its depth. Do not use it on items with cemented parts, such as hollow-handled knives, or on pieces with pearls, turquoise or other porous gemstones. The page on hollowware explains why some pieces have fillings and fragile joins that dislike heat and water.
Cutlery with stainless blades. Many knives have a stainless steel blade joined to a sterling handle by cement. Keep the joint dry and out of hot water, and wipe the handle only.
Jewelry with stones. Soft or porous stones such as pearls, opal, turquoise and coral can be damaged by polish and soaking. Clean the metal around them with a barely damp cloth.
Oxidized or antiqued finishes. Some pieces are deliberately darkened in the recesses to emphasize detail. Polishing the raised areas only, with a cloth, preserves the effect.
Large pieces. Trays, teapots and candlesticks are easiest to clean in sections. Support heavy items so the base and joints do not bear the stress while you work.
Items that are only silver-plated (marked EPNS or similar) need even more care, because rubbing can wear through the thin plating.
More general advice is on the sterling silver care page, and a wider overview of the collection’s themes is on the home page.
It is not recommended. Acids can etch the surface or leave it dull. Mild soap, a polishing cloth or a proper silver polish is safer.
Light tarnish is a surface layer and can be removed. If it is left for decades, it can be harder to remove and may be associated with pitting if moisture is present, so regular care is easier.
Many collectors prefer to polish gently and leave some shading in engraved areas. For valuable or historically important pieces, ask a conservator or specialist before using strong methods.
When it starts to look dull. Pieces used often need less frequent polishing, and stored pieces may need a quick polish before use.
Gentle methods repeated as needed will treat the silver better than a single harsh cleaning. If you are unsure about a piece, test the method on a hidden area first.